Neck Re set question

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hfs morgan	Neck Re set question	Lead	[-]
(01/11/09 5:18 PM) Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts	Tags : None Hi, I have a 1988 M-36 and lately i think the neck may need resetting. Is this normal in a 20yr old guitar? Also is it a big/expensive job? I live in Midlands UK, if any UK members know of any Luthiers they would recommend i would be very grateful. HFS
DaveL35		#1	[-]
(01/11/09 5:39 PM) Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts	HFS, It is not really abnormal for a 20 y.o. guitar to need a neck reset. Some guitars need it even sooner, some later, some even never - it's not predictable. It's fairly big, it will probably cost £200 or more. If you have to factor in a refret and whatever else may have become necessary in 20 years, you could be heading for £350-400. I use this guy for work of this type: http://www.obm.pwp.blueyo....uk/mark_challinor_01.htm. He's in West Yorkshire. Maybe someone will suggest someone more local. But I'm in the Midlands too and make the trip up north to see him because he does a grand job. He tends to be a bit busy, so you may have to wait a while for him. Hope this helps. - Dave D-35 (1980) ~ OM-18V (2003) ~ 0-18 (mostly 1950; still awaiting restoration!) ~ Fender Stratocaster (1969) ~ Mandolins by Andy Tobin (2006) & Stefan Sobell (late 1970s) ~ Bouzouki by Paul Hathway (1996) ...if you want to, you can see some of these HERE.
waterpoet57		#2	[-]
(01/11/09 6:56 PM) Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts	Please forgive this question if it is inappropriate, but what indications are there that your guitar needs a neck reset? To answer your question, I would go see Sheehans of Leicester. BTW with all due respect to Dave I think you will need to budget for rather more than £200. If his guy is doing neck resets for this sort of money, I'm not surprised he has a waiting list. A crucial factor, to me, in choosing somebody to do this work, would include asking them if they remove the fingerboard intact, or whether they cut it at the 11th fret or wherever. I wouldn't want that done to any of my guitars. P.S. I just took a peek at the Martin website, and it seems by the rounded ends that your saddle is drop-in. That's likely to be a positive in terms of the cost of the work. CONOR 2005 D-18GE (Lady Gwendolen) \| 2006 000-15S (Lady Grania) \| Backpacker (Miranda G) \| Forum Intro P70 "The Beatles seem to be dying in inverse proportion to their talent; this may mean that Ringo Starr will live forever" Last Edited By: waterpoet57 01/12/09 3:30 AM. Edited 4 times.
jbbancroft		#3	[-]
(01/11/09 7:59 PM) Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts	For a 20 year old Martin, it's normal. The cost for a neck reset can start as low as $250.00 and go up to a high of $450.00. in the USA. Jim
MikeHalloran		#4	[-]
(01/12/09 10:08 AM) Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts	>The cost for a neck reset can start as low as $250.00 and go up to a high of $450.00. in the USA<<br /> Not in the San Francisco area. It is higher here. Mike Halloran '49 00-28G, '03 000C-16SGTNE, '03 000-15S, Backpacker Mandolin, '60s Style 0 uke, '30s Style 1K uke, '67 D12-35,, '75 D-35S, Cowboy X, Cowboy II (I think that's all the Martins) Many Guilds, Gibsons and Goyas
Arnoldgtr		#5	[-]
(01/12/09 2:53 PM) Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts	A crucial factor, to me, in choosing somebody to do this work, would include asking them if they remove the fingerboard intact, or whether they cut it at the 11th fret or wherever. There should be no reason to do either one on a Martin. The fingerboard is only unglued from the top. It remains glued to the neck. P.S. I just took a peek at the Martin website, and it seems by the rounded ends that your saddle is drop-in. In 1986, Martin did not use a long drop-in saddle. All the short saddles are drop-in. A glued saddle adds $15 to my price. John
hfs morgan		#6	[-]
(01/12/09 2:53 PM) Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts	Please forgive this question if it is inappropriate, but what indications are there that your guitar needs a neck reset? Thanks all especially UK members with the usefull luthier info. In response to waterpoets question - i`m by no means an expert but the action just seems high compared to other guitars i`ve played recently and seems to have got higher over the years. A few years ago i adjusted and checked the action myself and adjusted the saddle (after consulting the experts in this forum) which seemed to improve things for a while. My saddle is definately drop in. Thanks for the info Arnold. I can`t afford the £200 plus at the moment so i`ll have to put up with it. Its also got one small chip off the varnish other than that its in mint condition and sounds beautifull. A friend of mine also suggested Brooks guitars but they are down in Devon. Thanks again for your help. HFS Last Edited By: hfs morgan 01/12/09 2:58 PM. Edited 1 times.
Cardinal2B		#7	[-]
(01/12/09 5:03 PM) Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts	I think it is important to understand what is involved / how a neck reset is done as you consider this. So, check out these two sites (there's more if you Google for them, and many folks here who have actually performed them): http://www.guitarspecialist.com/neck.htm http://www.bryankimsey.com/ (click on "Neck Resets") Bryan is a UMGF member Jeff 1949 O-15 1976 D-28 1988 D12-18
waterpoet57		#8	[-]
(01/12/09 6:04 PM) Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts	HFS The reason I asked about what you felt the indicators were for a neck reset, is that you may well need one, but can possibly do some things to put it off and save up for it. All the following discounts your truss rod adjustment/neck relief Firstly, place a straight-edge of sufficient length that it doesn't rock on the fretboard and reaches the bridge. Note where it touches the bridge. It should ideally clear the bridge and touch the saddle. If not, that's your first indication of the need for a re-set. Then look at the saddle. Has it been whittled down over time to compensate for a high action. As long as the break angle of the strings over the saddle is sufficient not to allow you to physically lift the strings off with a forefinger and thumb, then you may have some time in hand. Many guitars have had the saddle sanded down indiscriminately, but the nut remains untouched because its a more involved job. If so, it may be be feasible to buy some time by having the nut slots lowered. Most martins nowadays leave the factory without the bridge having been ramped and/or slotted. Having this work done will improve tone and volume and MAY delay the onset of the re-set. All the work described above should cost you less than £100 and may provide an interim solution. My suggestion would be to get yourself over to Leicester with these points in mind (and the guitar) and see what they say. Usual disclaimers apply, YMMV, IMHO, yada yada yada. This is a guitarist's, not a purist's view and meant to be practical and helpful. There will doubtless be posts suggesting that they would prefer to set fire to their privates than do all/any of this. Good luck. CONOR 2005 D-18GE (Lady Gwendolen) \| 2006 000-15S (Lady Grania) \| Backpacker (Miranda G) \| Forum Intro P70 "The Beatles seem to be dying in inverse proportion to their talent; this may mean that Ringo Starr will live forever" Last Edited By: waterpoet57 01/12/09 6:26 PM. Edited 3 times.
hfs morgan		#9	[-]
(01/14/09 5:27 PM) Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts	Many thanks for the info Connor, i`ll get across to Leicester and have a chat, its just no fun to play at the moment. HFS

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